The Curly Hair Method

Step-by-step guide to the CGM for perfect curls and waves

12 min read Intermediate Updated Dec 2024
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What is the Curly Hair Method?

The Curly Hair Method (often called the Curly Girl/Guy Method or CGM) is a hair care approach designed to enhance and maintain natural curls and waves. Developed by Lorraine Massey, this method eliminates harsh ingredients and damaging practices while focusing on hydration and gentle handling to bring out your hair's natural curl pattern.

Before You Start

The CGM requires commitment and patience. Your hair may go through a transition period of 2-8 weeks as it adjusts to the new routine. Don't give up - the results are worth it!

Core Principles of CGM

  1. No Sulfates: Avoid harsh cleansers that strip natural oils
  2. No Silicones: Eliminate ingredients that cause buildup
  3. No Heat Styling: Protect hair from heat damage
  4. No Brushing: Prevent disrupting curl pattern
  5. Gentle Drying: Use microfiber or t-shirt, not terry towels
  6. Hydration Focus: Keep curls moisturized and defined

The CGM Routine: Step by Step

1

Final Wash (Reset)

Start with a clarifying shampoo to remove all buildup

  • Use a sulfate shampoo one last time
  • This removes silicones and product buildup
  • Only needed once at the beginning
2

Co-Washing or Low-Poo

Cleanse with conditioner or sulfate-free shampoo

  • Massage scalp thoroughly with fingertips
  • Focus on scalp, let suds clean length
  • Rinse with cool water
3

Condition & Detangle

Apply generous amount of CGM-approved conditioner

  • Use wide-tooth comb or fingers to detangle
  • Squish to Condish (S2C) technique
  • Don't rinse completely - leave some in
4

Apply Styling Products

Layer products while hair is soaking wet

  • Leave-in conditioner first
  • Curl cream or enhancer
  • Gel or mousse for hold
  • Use praying hands or scrunching method
5

Dry Gently

Preserve curl pattern while drying

  • Plop with microfiber towel (10-20 mins)
  • Air dry or diffuse on low heat
  • Don't touch while drying!
  • Scrunch out the crunch when 100% dry

Techniques to Master

Squish to Condish (S2C)

This technique helps conditioner penetrate the hair shaft while encouraging curl formation. Cup water in your hands and squish it into your hair repeatedly while it's full of conditioner. You'll hear a squishing sound - that's good!

Plopping

Plopping involves wrapping wet hair in a t-shirt or microfiber towel to enhance curl formation and reduce drying time. Lay the shirt flat, flip your hair onto it, wrap, and secure on top of your head.

Scrunching Out the Crunch (SOTC)

Once your hair is 100% dry and has a gel cast, gently scrunch to break the cast and reveal soft, defined curls. Use a tiny bit of oil on your hands to reduce frizz.

Do's and Don'ts

DO's

  • Deep condition weekly
  • Sleep on silk/satin pillowcase
  • Refresh curls with water spray
  • Trim regularly (every 8-12 weeks)
  • Be patient during transition
  • Document your journey

DON'Ts

  • Use sulfates or silicones
  • Brush dry hair
  • Use terry cloth towels
  • Touch hair while drying
  • Skip regular trims
  • Give up too soon

Ingredients to Avoid

  • Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
  • Silicones: Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane (anything ending in -cone, -conol, -siloxane)
  • Drying Alcohols: SD Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Denatured Alcohol
  • Waxes: Beeswax, Candelilla Wax (in excess)

CGM-Approved Ingredients

  • Gentle Cleansers: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside
  • Moisturizers: Glycerin, Aloe Vera, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil
  • Proteins: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Silk Amino Acids
  • Good Alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol (fatty alcohols)

Success Tips

  • Take before photos to track progress
  • Keep a hair journal noting products and techniques
  • Join online CGM communities for support
  • Adjust the method to suit YOUR hair
  • Remember: every curl pattern is unique!

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Frizz

Usually caused by lack of moisture or touching hair too much. Try more leave-in conditioner, sealing with gel, and hands off while drying.

Limp Curls

Could be over-moisturized or product buildup. Try a protein treatment or clarifying wash, and use lighter products.

Undefined Curls

Need more hold product or better application technique. Try more gel and ensure even distribution with praying hands method.

Conclusion

The Curly Hair Method is more than just a routine - it's a journey of discovering and embracing your natural texture. While it requires dedication and experimentation to find what works for your unique curls, the results - healthy, defined, beautiful curls - are absolutely worth it. Remember, the method is a guideline, not a rulebook. Adapt it to your needs and enjoy your curl journey!